Bikini Atoll, the best wreck diving in the world.
"As soon as the war [WWII] ended, we located the one spot on earth that hadn't been touched by the war and blew it to hell."
--Comedian Bob Hope commenting on Operation Crossroads
As funny as Bob Hope's comment may sound it is true in other ways as well. Scientists have calculated that if you were to add up all the explosives ever used, meaning all the way back to the Chinese invention of Gun Powder (2000 BC), plus ever single war ever fought up to present day, 4% of those explosions occurred in Bikini.
Needless to say, a bit of politics and posturing were going on. In order to help settle the issue, a series of tests were formulated to help answer some of these questions. Bikini and Enewetak were selected as nuclear test sites. The Bikini tests were code named Operation Crossroads and Operation Castle. Operation Crossroads was a nuclear weapon test series conducted in the summer of 1946. The series consisted of two detonations, a low altitude atmospheric test and a shallow water test. The devices, each with a yield of 21 kilotons, were named ABLE and BAKER.
The ABLE blast was targeted on the USS Nevada BB-36, July 1 1946. The entire ship was painted a bright orange to assist the pilots in hitting the target. They missed, by over 1,500 ft. Other ships were positioned around the Nevada with "Christmas Tree" gauges to measure the effects of the detonation. The "Christmas Tree" gauges are mini-scaffolds in a rough pyramid shape. At the top of the gauge was a steel plate with different sized holes. Behind these holes were pressure sensitive plates. After the test, the pressure plates were collected, above or below the sea, to measure the force experienced by the ship.
The BAKER blast was positioned 90ft underwater, July 25 1946. While both ABLE and BAKER were the same tonnage, the Baker blast was significantly more destructive. You'll notice that the picture on the left has a dark splotch in the water column, some believe this is the USS Arkansas — she's a battleship. The circular cloud in the picture on the right is vapor water. In both pictures, it's pretty easy to see the test fleet.
After each test, as soon as 1hr afterward, clean-up crews were taken to the remaining floating ships with the intent of eliminating the radioactivity. Some of this treatments included washing down with seawater and blasting the ships' surface with walnut shells. Needless to say these crews and the scientists were still learning about radioactivity.
The term fallout is a direct result of this explosion — BRAVO invented the word. BRAVO also contaminated the atoll. Today, the vegetation still contains radioactive Cesium from that blast. While eating the coconuts is not recommended, eating 1 coconut a day would probably have minimal health effects.
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Commissioned in 1927, an American aircraft carrier 880 feet in length and weighing in at 39,000 tons, it rests in Bikini's lagoon at a depth of 190 feet. Her bridge is easily accessible at 40 feet, her deck at 90 feet, and the hanger for the Helldivers at 125 feet. These Helldivers and bombs are still on display, complete with all dials and controls.
Saratoga had a fuel capacity of 63,200 barrels of fuel oil, 249 barrels of diesel oil, and 132,264 gallons of gasoline. Fuel and ammunition loads during test BAKER were 10% of capacity and 67% capacity respectively. She was reported sunk by the Japanese seven times during World War II. She received seven battle stars.
Eight hours after the waves created by the atomic Baker blast rolled over her, New York Times correspondent Hanson W. Baldwin wrote this epitaph as he watched the Saratoga sink slowly beneath Bikini's lagoon: "There were many who had served her in the observing fleet and they fought with her through the long hot hours as the sun mounted. Outside the reef...the observing ships cruised, while the Sara slowly died. There were scores who wanted to save her and perhaps she might have been saved, had there been a crew aboard. But she died a lonely death, with no man upon the decks once teaming with life, with pumps idle and boilers dead. From three o'clock on she sank fast, her buoyancy gone, as the fleet kept the death watch for a 'fighting lady.' The Sara settled-the air soughing from her compartments like the breath from exhausted lungs. At 3:45 p.m. the starboard aft corner of her flight deck was awash; then the loud speakers blared: 'The water is up to her island now; the bow is high in the air.' She died like a queen-proudly. The bow slowly reared high; the stern sank deep, and, as if striving for immortality, the Sara lifted her white numeral 3 high into the sun before her bow slipped slowly under. Her last minutes were slow and tortured; she fought and would not sink, but slowly the 3 was engulfed by the reaching waters, the tip of her mast was the last bit of Sara seen by man." Unless, of course, you are a diver fortunate enough to be visiting Bikini Atoll!
Kath and Aerial drop torpedos
Artifacts
Kath at the Prop (approximately 175' deep)
However, this trip the gods were truly smiling on us, since we had the opportunity to do 3 penetration dives on the Sara: the Mainline, the Combat Information Center & Captain's Cabin, and the Scullery and Pantry. While Kath and I have high resolution maps of all 3 dives, these won't be shared except for those that were on the trip with us, doing otherwise could jeopardize the Bikini divemasters and other divers. You will find penetration maps both here and in the galleries. The quality of the maps are low resolution by design.
Lightbulb in the Haunted House
Pitchers in the Scullery
Coffee Maker in the Pantry
Map
Radar Screen in the CIC
Artifacts in the Captain's Cabin
Barber's Chair
Map
More Pictures can be found here
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The 32,720 ton battleship is at rest upside down in 170 feet of water; her bridge is accessible at 150 feet, the hull and monstrous props at 110 feet. The Nagato was built by Kure Naval Dockyard, launched on November 9, 1919, and completed on November 25, 1920. She was reconstructed in 1934-1936, with torpedo bulges, increased elevation for main armament, aircraft crane, etc. After this refit, Nagato had 10 Kampon boilers, driving 4 sets of Kampon turbines developing 82,300 shaft horsepower (shp) for a speed of 25 knots. Her fuel bunkerage was now 5,650 tons of oil, giving her a radius of 8,650 nautical miles at 16 knots. Her new dimensions were 725' 9" long at the waterline, 113' 6" beam, 32' 2" draught. Her normal displacement was 39,130 tons, 42,850 tons at full load. She carried a crew of 1,368. In June 1944 she was known to be fitted with radar. By October 1944 her armament consisted of 8 x 16"/45, 18 x 5.5"/50 (guns that were later removed), 8 x 5"/40, and 98 x 25mm AA guns. Her displacement had by now increased to 43,581 tons full load, and as a result her maximum speed was 24.98 knots. By the end of the war she had had her main mast and funnel removed for camouflage purposes, as she was holed up in Sagami Bay near Yokosuka.
Fuel and ammunition loads during both ABLE and BAKER tests were, respectively, 15% and 10% of capacity. She is upside down in the water and an incredible dive with her four massive screws appearing like an underwater Stonehenge. Note the chrysanthemum on the tip of the bow. This is the mark of the emperor and in this case it denotes the flagship.
Paul Inside
16" Gun
Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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The Arkansas, at rest almost completely upside down in Bikini's lagoon in 170 feet of water, received four battle stars for her service in World War II and was sunk by BAKER.
Looking up the Barrel on one of her 14" Guns
More Pictures can be found here
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She received five battle stars and was sunk by BAKER. She now appears perfectly upright as if ready to drive away on the bottom of Bikini's lagoon. Eric Hanauer of Discover Diving commented, "The shadowy silhouette of Apogon's conning tower, completely enveloped by glassy sweepers, is one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen underwater."
Bow
Props with Diver
Inside Torpedo with Bunk on Starboard side
Inside Torpedo on Port side
More Pictures of the Apogon can be found here
The USS Bowfin is a Balao class submarine just like the Apogon. The Bowfin is currently a musuem at Pearl Harbor.
Profile
Anti Aircraft Gun
More Pictures of the Bowfin can be found here
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She carried 2929 barrels of fuel oil and 168 barrels of diesel oil and was at 95% of capacity of both fuel and ordnance when she was sunk by ABLE and is now at rest on her side in Bikini's lagoon. 348 feet long.
Anti Aircraft Gun
Depth Charges
Beth and Kathy looking at artifacts
Paul and Kathy at the Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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Her fuel capacity was 3,600 barrels, her diesel oil capacity was 110 barrels, and she was at 50% capacity for both fuels and ordnance when she was sunk by ABLE. Her hull provides a great example of the power of a nuclear explosion as it is horribly twisted and damaged.
Artifacts
Kath Positioned at an Anti Aircraft Gun
Kath between 2 Torpedo Launchers
The back-side of one of the Torpedo's above
More Pictures can be found here
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The ABLE blast split her open so she makes for a sensational penetration dive. Fuel and ammunition loads during test ABLE were 95% of capacity. The Carlisle was sunk by the ABLE blast.
Deck Gun
Artifacts
Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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Kath and a mildly radioactive coconut
Beach
Palms in a line courtesy of the army corp of engineers
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Ron Kline's pictures can be found at here and here
Table of contents
Where
Bikini is located 11 degrees north of the equator in the Marshall Island chain."As soon as the war [WWII] ended, we located the one spot on earth that hadn't been touched by the war and blew it to hell."
--Comedian Bob Hope commenting on Operation Crossroads
As funny as Bob Hope's comment may sound it is true in other ways as well. Scientists have calculated that if you were to add up all the explosives ever used, meaning all the way back to the Chinese invention of Gun Powder (2000 BC), plus ever single war ever fought up to present day, 4% of those explosions occurred in Bikini.
| World Perspective | Bikini Atoll |
Why
Pearl Harbor signaled the end of the battleship era and the beginning of the aircraft carrier's dominance. Post World War II, the U.S. only had a 2 military branches: the Army and the Navy. The Air Force was still a division of the Army. After the Japanese surrender, military leaders were grappling with how to use nuclear weapons and also how did the navy, army, and air force fit together. The Air Force was struggling to breakaway from the Army and believed that navies was now obsolete since aerial nuclear weapons would obliterate naval ships. The Navy believed otherwise.Needless to say, a bit of politics and posturing were going on. In order to help settle the issue, a series of tests were formulated to help answer some of these questions. Bikini and Enewetak were selected as nuclear test sites. The Bikini tests were code named Operation Crossroads and Operation Castle. Operation Crossroads was a nuclear weapon test series conducted in the summer of 1946. The series consisted of two detonations, a low altitude atmospheric test and a shallow water test. The devices, each with a yield of 21 kilotons, were named ABLE and BAKER.
Operation Crossroads
These tests were very public. If you could afford the airfare, you were welcome to watch and/or report on the event. Part of the reason for the large amount of the publicity was to allow the rest of the world to witness the power of the U.S.A. In many ways this was 1 step along the way to escalating the Cold War.The ABLE blast was targeted on the USS Nevada BB-36, July 1 1946. The entire ship was painted a bright orange to assist the pilots in hitting the target. They missed, by over 1,500 ft. Other ships were positioned around the Nevada with "Christmas Tree" gauges to measure the effects of the detonation. The "Christmas Tree" gauges are mini-scaffolds in a rough pyramid shape. At the top of the gauge was a steel plate with different sized holes. Behind these holes were pressure sensitive plates. After the test, the pressure plates were collected, above or below the sea, to measure the force experienced by the ship.
The BAKER blast was positioned 90ft underwater, July 25 1946. While both ABLE and BAKER were the same tonnage, the Baker blast was significantly more destructive. You'll notice that the picture on the left has a dark splotch in the water column, some believe this is the USS Arkansas — she's a battleship. The circular cloud in the picture on the right is vapor water. In both pictures, it's pretty easy to see the test fleet.
After each test, as soon as 1hr afterward, clean-up crews were taken to the remaining floating ships with the intent of eliminating the radioactivity. Some of this treatments included washing down with seawater and blasting the ships' surface with walnut shells. Needless to say these crews and the scientists were still learning about radioactivity.
Operation Castle
The BRAVO blast was part of Operation Castle in March 1954. This was a huge scientific mistake, to put it mildly. It was positioned 7 ft above the surface and was originally predicted to be a 3 megaton explosion, which is 142 times the size of the ABLE or BAKER blasts. The scientists re-calculated the numbers and said it would be a 5 megaton bomb. It turned out to be 15 megatons. It was so powerful, Guam reported seeing a second sun that morning. Three islands of Bikini were completely vaporized - note the crater in the picture near the top of this page. The winds were blowing the wrong way and radioactive fallout was dumped on Rongelap. A Japanese fishing boat crew was also killed by the fallout.The term fallout is a direct result of this explosion — BRAVO invented the word. BRAVO also contaminated the atoll. Today, the vegetation still contains radioactive Cesium from that blast. While eating the coconuts is not recommended, eating 1 coconut a day would probably have minimal health effects.
The Diving
The diving on Bikini is very technical and very deep. Most dives are 150-170' which means very long decompression dives. A typical dive is 25-30 minute runtime (from the time you jump into the water until you are back on the anchor line coming up). Then another 40-60 minutes climbing the anchor line and decompressing on high O2 mixtures....page... Wiki page pagination has not been enabled.
USS Saratoga CV-3
The USS Saratoga is the largest diveable vessel in the world, and the only aircraft carrier available for diving (however this will change shortly with the USS Oriskany soon to be in Pensacola).Commissioned in 1927, an American aircraft carrier 880 feet in length and weighing in at 39,000 tons, it rests in Bikini's lagoon at a depth of 190 feet. Her bridge is easily accessible at 40 feet, her deck at 90 feet, and the hanger for the Helldivers at 125 feet. These Helldivers and bombs are still on display, complete with all dials and controls.
Saratoga had a fuel capacity of 63,200 barrels of fuel oil, 249 barrels of diesel oil, and 132,264 gallons of gasoline. Fuel and ammunition loads during test BAKER were 10% of capacity and 67% capacity respectively. She was reported sunk by the Japanese seven times during World War II. She received seven battle stars.
Eight hours after the waves created by the atomic Baker blast rolled over her, New York Times correspondent Hanson W. Baldwin wrote this epitaph as he watched the Saratoga sink slowly beneath Bikini's lagoon: "There were many who had served her in the observing fleet and they fought with her through the long hot hours as the sun mounted. Outside the reef...the observing ships cruised, while the Sara slowly died. There were scores who wanted to save her and perhaps she might have been saved, had there been a crew aboard. But she died a lonely death, with no man upon the decks once teaming with life, with pumps idle and boilers dead. From three o'clock on she sank fast, her buoyancy gone, as the fleet kept the death watch for a 'fighting lady.' The Sara settled-the air soughing from her compartments like the breath from exhausted lungs. At 3:45 p.m. the starboard aft corner of her flight deck was awash; then the loud speakers blared: 'The water is up to her island now; the bow is high in the air.' She died like a queen-proudly. The bow slowly reared high; the stern sank deep, and, as if striving for immortality, the Sara lifted her white numeral 3 high into the sun before her bow slipped slowly under. Her last minutes were slow and tortured; she fought and would not sink, but slowly the 3 was engulfed by the reaching waters, the tip of her mast was the last bit of Sara seen by man." Unless, of course, you are a diver fortunate enough to be visiting Bikini Atoll!
Kath and Aerial drop torpedos
Artifacts
Kath at the Prop (approximately 175' deep)
Inside a sunken aircraft carrier
During our 2nd week on Bikini the divemasters gave us an incredibly special treat; going inside Sara. Most week's on Bikini the dive masters will take the group in the "Haunted House". This dive traverses a long portion of the hangar, with highlights of a 2,000lb. bomb, a completely intact light bulb, a torpedo raising from a crushed bulkhead and more.However, this trip the gods were truly smiling on us, since we had the opportunity to do 3 penetration dives on the Sara: the Mainline, the Combat Information Center & Captain's Cabin, and the Scullery and Pantry. While Kath and I have high resolution maps of all 3 dives, these won't be shared except for those that were on the trip with us, doing otherwise could jeopardize the Bikini divemasters and other divers. You will find penetration maps both here and in the galleries. The quality of the maps are low resolution by design.
Hangar Deck
HellcatLightbulb in the Haunted House
Scullery and Pantry
The Scullery is a china cabinet in the form of a small room for washing the dishes, while a Pantry is pretty self-explanatory. Sculleries are prized among divers for the china collection. And while we weren't allowed to take souvenirs, it's a thrill to see all the goodies. The Pantry had plenty of dishes as well, and a coffeemaker, can opener, etc. It's funny how the mundane becomes interesting.Pitchers in the Scullery
Coffee Maker in the Pantry
Map
Combat Information Center and Captain's Cabin
The Combat Information Center is loaded with old-time radars and other electrical gadgets. The Captain's Cabin has the private dishes and silverware of the Captain.Radar Screen in the CIC
Artifacts in the Captain's Cabin
Barber's Chair
Map
More Pictures can be found here
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HIJMS Nagato
The Japanese Flagship to the Japanese Navy, she was Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto's floating fortress during Japan's World War II attack on Pearl Harbor and was a treasure to the Japanese forces. Japanese Naval historian Masanori Ito wrote: "When World War II began, the Japanese Navy-the third most powerful in the world-included some of the mightiest ships in naval history and was a force worthy of the pride and trust of the Japanese people. Then, in less than four years, this great war machine fell from glory to oblivion. Of ten battleships riding in Hiroshima Bay in December of 1941, nine were sunk. The lone survivor, the Nagato, died at Bikini as a target in an atomic bomb test."The 32,720 ton battleship is at rest upside down in 170 feet of water; her bridge is accessible at 150 feet, the hull and monstrous props at 110 feet. The Nagato was built by Kure Naval Dockyard, launched on November 9, 1919, and completed on November 25, 1920. She was reconstructed in 1934-1936, with torpedo bulges, increased elevation for main armament, aircraft crane, etc. After this refit, Nagato had 10 Kampon boilers, driving 4 sets of Kampon turbines developing 82,300 shaft horsepower (shp) for a speed of 25 knots. Her fuel bunkerage was now 5,650 tons of oil, giving her a radius of 8,650 nautical miles at 16 knots. Her new dimensions were 725' 9" long at the waterline, 113' 6" beam, 32' 2" draught. Her normal displacement was 39,130 tons, 42,850 tons at full load. She carried a crew of 1,368. In June 1944 she was known to be fitted with radar. By October 1944 her armament consisted of 8 x 16"/45, 18 x 5.5"/50 (guns that were later removed), 8 x 5"/40, and 98 x 25mm AA guns. Her displacement had by now increased to 43,581 tons full load, and as a result her maximum speed was 24.98 knots. By the end of the war she had had her main mast and funnel removed for camouflage purposes, as she was holed up in Sagami Bay near Yokosuka.
Fuel and ammunition loads during both ABLE and BAKER tests were, respectively, 15% and 10% of capacity. She is upside down in the water and an incredible dive with her four massive screws appearing like an underwater Stonehenge. Note the chrysanthemum on the tip of the bow. This is the mark of the emperor and in this case it denotes the flagship.
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Paul Inside
16" Gun
Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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USS Arkansas BB-33
A 29,000 ton American battleship that survived two world wars had a fuel capacity of 37,779 barrels of fuel oil, 119 barrels of diesel oil, and 4,000 gallons of gasoline. The Arkansas took part in the Presidential Naval Review in the Hudson River, October 14, 1912 and then carried President William H. Taft to the Panama Canal Zone for an inspection of the unfinished canal. On April 22, 1914, she assisted in the occupation of Veracruz, Mexico. In December of 1918 she formed part of the escort carrying President Woodrow Wilson to France. In World War II, the Arkansas escorted convoys across the Atlantic. She remained in European waters for the invasion of Normandy where she performed yeoman service at Omaha Beach, the bombardment of Cherbourg and the invasion of southern France. She then moved to the Pacific to participate in action at Iwo Jima and Okinawa.The Arkansas, at rest almost completely upside down in Bikini's lagoon in 170 feet of water, received four battle stars for her service in World War II and was sunk by BAKER.
Looking up the Barrel on one of her 14" Guns
More Pictures can be found here
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USS Apogon SS-308
A Balao-class submarine with normal fuel capacity of 54,000 gallons, and an emergency load of 116,000 gallons. She made eight war patrols sinking three Japanese vessels totaling 7,575 tons. Her first patrol was out of Pearl Harbor in November of 1943. She later patrolled from Majuro to Midway and was part of Operation Galvanic during the invasions of Tarawa and the Gilbert Islands. Working off Formosa, she ran in a wolf-pack known as the "Mickey Finns" that sunk 41,000 tons worth of Japanese vessels toward the end of the war.She received five battle stars and was sunk by BAKER. She now appears perfectly upright as if ready to drive away on the bottom of Bikini's lagoon. Eric Hanauer of Discover Diving commented, "The shadowy silhouette of Apogon's conning tower, completely enveloped by glassy sweepers, is one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen underwater."
Bow
Props with Diver
Inside Torpedo with Bunk on Starboard side
Inside Torpedo on Port side
More Pictures of the Apogon can be found here
The USS Bowfin is a Balao class submarine just like the Apogon. The Bowfin is currently a musuem at Pearl Harbor.
Profile
Anti Aircraft Gun
More Pictures of the Bowfin can be found here
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USS Anderson DD-411
An American destroyer that received ten battle stars during World War II. She served as a carrier screen in the Coral Sea, Midway, the Solomons, Guadalcanal, and Tarawa. Always on the frontlines, she was with the Lexington CV-2 and the Yorktown CV-5 aircraft carriers when they were sunk in battle by the Japanese. She was also with the USS Wasp and the USS Hornet when they were sunk in WWII. In 1943, in Wotje Atoll in the Marshall Islands, she got hit with a 155mm shell that killed the captain and five officers and wounded another 18 men.She carried 2929 barrels of fuel oil and 168 barrels of diesel oil and was at 95% of capacity of both fuel and ordnance when she was sunk by ABLE and is now at rest on her side in Bikini's lagoon. 348 feet long.
Anti Aircraft Gun
Depth Charges
Beth and Kathy looking at artifacts
Paul and Kathy at the Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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USS Lamson DD-367
The American destroyer Lamson received five battle stars for service during World War II. She was used to search for Amelia Earhart in 1937 in the Marshall and Gilbert Islands. She was deployed from Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, in the unsuccessful search for the Japanese Task Force that bombed Pearl Harbor and later served throughout the Pacific until the end of the war.Her fuel capacity was 3,600 barrels, her diesel oil capacity was 110 barrels, and she was at 50% capacity for both fuels and ordnance when she was sunk by ABLE. Her hull provides a great example of the power of a nuclear explosion as it is horribly twisted and damaged.
Artifacts
Kath Positioned at an Anti Aircraft Gun
Kath between 2 Torpedo Launchers
The back-side of one of the Torpedo's above
More Pictures can be found here
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USS Carlisle AA-69
A Liberty ship, a merchant ship, named after a county in Kentucky, she had fuel capacity of 9,695 barrels of fuel oil and 375 barrels of diesel oil. She made three voyages to the west coast from Hawaii and Japan and shorter passages among South Pacific islands. She sits upright on the bottom and is guarded by a magnificent school of skip jacks; and there is almost always a shark siting on this ship.The ABLE blast split her open so she makes for a sensational penetration dive. Fuel and ammunition loads during test ABLE were 95% of capacity. The Carlisle was sunk by the ABLE blast.
Deck Gun
Artifacts
Prop
More Pictures can be found here
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Land
You don't go to Bikini for the land tour. Bikini, the island, not the atoll, is only 0.5 miles wide by 2 miles long. You can easily walk the island in an afternoon. If you go, don't forget the kitty treats. Bikini has a feral cat population that could use a little TLC.Kath and a mildly radioactive coconut
Beach
Palms in a line courtesy of the army corp of engineers
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Logistics
The agony to get there
In order to get to Bikini from Philly, you'll fly the following route:- Philly to Houston
- Houston to Honolulu
- overnight
- Honolulu to Majuro (in the Marshall Islands) — roughly 5 hours
- overnight
- Majuro to Bikini — roughly 3 hours
- Boat ride to the Resort
Technicals
John decided to minimize the amount of "Photoshop" worked performed on the pictures for this trip. So you'll see a little grain here or there, maybe a little cropping that should have been done, and other imperfections.Ron Kline's pictures can be found at here and here